Kristian Steve Jensen

OK, here's one for you to think about:

1988A Saab 9000i

The locking knob on my rear right door froze up so bad I couldn't move it
with all my brute force, and the central locking fuse blew. I removed the
inside of the door (which is no small feat when the door can't be opened)
and refastened the locking linkages, so everything could move like it was
supposed to. I changed the fuse, and it blew again when trying to lock. I
disconnected the locking motor, changed the fuse, turned the key in the
drivers door, and the fuse blew again. Now I'm stomped. All locks can move
freely, with little resistance. Where could the fault be? What can I do to
try to isolate it?

Kristian

OKOK!

Disconnect all of them and reconnect one at a time until the fuse goes ...?


> drivers door, and the fuse blew again. Now I'm stomped. All locks can move
> freely, with little resistance. Where could the fault be? What can I do to
> try to isolate it?
>
> Kristian
>
>

Kristian Steve Jensen

"Kristian Steve Jensen" <dat0hksj@stud.hitos.no> skrev i melding
news:c321co$21sttd$1@ID-166583.news.uni-berlin.de...
> OK, here's one for you to think about:
>
> 1988A Saab 9000i
>
> The locking knob on my rear right door froze up so bad I couldn't move it
> with all my brute force, and the central locking fuse blew. I removed the
> inside of the door (which is no small feat when the door can't be opened)
> and refastened the locking linkages, so everything could move like it was
> supposed to. I changed the fuse, and it blew again when trying to lock. I
> disconnected the locking motor, changed the fuse, turned the key in the
> drivers door, and the fuse blew again. Now I'm stomped. All locks can move
> freely, with little resistance. Where could the fault be? What can I do to
> try to isolate it?


I fit in a 30A fuse, and it works. I'll let you know when my car burns.

Kristian